(51475) Cartier Pasha de Cartier Moon Phases WSPA0030, stainless steel on a strap with a matching steel deployant buckle, automatic movement, stainless steel screw-down crown cover set with sapphire cabochon, silvered guilloche dial with blue Arabic numerals, blued-steel diamond-shaped hands and a moonphase complication at 6 o'clock, diameter: 41mm, thickness: 8mm, sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters. Like New with Cart...
(54681) Cartier 2760 W1545851 Privee Collection Tortue 18k XL CPCP, 18k Rose gold on a strap with an 18k Rose gold deployant buckle, manual wind Cartier movement (9910MC), silver guilloche dial with black Roman numerals, steel blued hands, display back, size: 38 mm x 48mm (including lugs), Thickness: 11.5mm, sapphire crystal, display-back, water resistant. Like New with Cartier box.
(48683) Cartier 0955 Pasha De Cartier Golf Counter Automatic 30010, 0955 1, 09551, 0955.1, 18k yellow gold case on a strap with an 18k yellow gold deployant buckle, automatic movement, 18k yellow gold screw-down drown cover set with a sapphire cabochon, two-tone cream and blue dial with blued steel hands and printed hour and minute tracks, four apertures at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock and their accompanying corrector each allow for keep...
(52251) Cartier W1546251 2802 Tonneau XL Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP), 18K yellow gold on an alligator strap with 18K rose gold folding deployant buckle, manual wind and finely decorated Cartier Calibre 9790MC movement, silver guilloche dial with the signature central rosette, black Roman numerals, blued steel hands, sapphire cabochon crown, sapphire crystal, size:29.5mm x 51mm (including lugs), thickness: 9mm, Like New w...
(53120) Cartier Platinum Tonneau Cintree 2435, platinum tonneau case with an 18k white gold deployment buckle (original), manual wind Cartier Caliber 78/1, silver guilloche dial with black painted roman numerals, blue sapphire crown, sapphire crystal, size: 39mm x 26mm, thickness: 7.8mm, Excellent Condition and comes with Cartier Box and instructions.
(51834) Cartier W5310032 Tank Anglaise Large, 18K yellow gold with a yellow gold deployant buckle, automatic Cartier caliber 1904MC, silver flinque dial with black Roman numerals and blued steel hands, date window at 3 o'clock, crown is integrated into the right side of the case, sapphire crystal, display back, size: 36mm x 47mm, thickness: 9.8mm. Like New with Cartier travel pouch and papers.
(38064) Cartier W2606356 Tank Americaine LM Limited Edition for Italy 1735, 18k yellow gold tank style case on a strap with a matching 18k yellow gold Cartier tang buckle, manual wind cartier caliber 430MC movement, ivory guilloche dial with painted burgundy roman numeral hour markers, blued hands, crown set with iconic sapphire, sapphire crystal, solid back, water resistant, size 45mm x 26.5mm, Like New with Cartier service pouch ...
(53122) Cartier 2805 Tonneau XL Dual Time Collection Privee Cartier Paris CPCP, limited edition and very rare, 18k rose gold gold large tonneau curved case on a strap with an 18K rose gold deployant, powered by two individual manual wind Cartier caliber 9770MC movements, silver double dial design featuring the iconic stylized Roman numerals and blued steel hands, each dial featuring the Collection Privee guilloche emanating out of ...
(53474) Cartier Santos Dumont 7809, 18K yellow gold on a strap with a Cariter tang buckle, mechanical manual wind movement, black Roman numerals, blued steel hands, sapphire crystal, water resistant, diameter: 35mm x 25mm, thickness: 4.1mm. Excellent condition.
(52971) Cartier Baignoire Allongee WJBA0006, 18k rose gold elongated oval style case brilliant-cut diamonond on a taupe alligator strap with rose gold Cartier deployant buckle, manual wind movement caliber 1917 MC, blued steel hands, ivory guilloche dial with stylized painted black roman numerals, crown set with iconic sapphire, sapphire crystal, solid back, water resistant, size 47mm x 21mm. Like New with Cartier box, booklets, an...
(53261) Cartier Santos-Dumont watch WGSA0053, platinum on a leather strap with a platinum tang buckle, limited edition of 150 pieces worldwide, large model, mechanical movement with manual winding caliber MC 430. Silver dial, ruby cabochon crown, burgundy enamel bezel, Roman numerals, steel sword-shaped hands in white gold, sapphire crystal. Case back engraved with the handwritten signature of Alberto Santos-Dumont. Case dimension...
(53228) Cartier Tank Cintree Skeleton HPI01123, introduced in 2017 with two other models, each Llmited to 100 pieces, diamond set platinum case on an alligator strap with a diamond set white gold folding buckle, manual wind Cartier Caliber 9917 MC, 60 hour power reserve, skeletonized movement, sapphire crystal, sapphire cabachon, size 23mm x 46.5mm, thickness 8mm. Like new with Original Cartier limited edition Box and Papers from 2...
(54121) Cartier WGTA0120 Prive Collection Tank Asymetrique "New York 5th Ave" Limited Edition, limited edition made specifically for the Cartier boutique on 5th Avenue in NYC, based on a design first launched in 1936, platinum asymmetric case on an alligator strap with a matching platinum tang buckle, manual wind Cartier caliber 1917 MC, 38-hour power reserve, blue sunburst dial with applied Arabic numeral hour markers, baton hands...
Cartier is currently owned by the Swiss Richemont Group. After its founding in 1874 and decades of
success under the control of the Cartier family, the brand found itself struggling and on the edge of
bankruptcy. In 1964, the Cartier affiliates in London, New York, and Paris were sold to various
investors by the great-grandchildren of founder Louis Cartier. Eventually, after years of
consolidation, a group of French investors called the Monde Group managed to purchase all three
affiliates and reunited the three separate houses. In 1993, the Monde Group merged with several
other luxury brands, ultimately forming the base for what we now know today as the Swiss
Richemont Group.
Cartier produces between 450,000 and 500,000 watches each year. The company ranks third in
terms of total market share, behind Rolex and Omega, with 6.7 percent of the total market.
During the late 1970’s, Cartier introduced a line of affordable watches and jewelry known as “Must
De Cartier”. Utilizing gold-plated sterling silver cases, simple dials, and basic manual wind
movements, Cartier was able to significantly reduce manufacturing costs. The affordable price points
made the Must de Cartier line an overnight success, but after a time, the value focused sub-brand
began to de-value the overall image of the Cartier brand. In an effort to revitalize its luxury prestige,
they began working on a project known as the Collection Priveé Cartier Paris, in short, “CPCP”. It
was a collection of exceptional, and limited quantity precious metal watches produced by the Maison
de Paris from 1998 to 2008. These watches were a callback to the bespoke luxury that Cartier built
its long standing reputation on in the early 20th century. Watchmakers from various respected
brands were contracted to make calibers for the CPCP. These movements were then finished to a
high degree and cased in “classic” Cartier designs strictly in precious metal. At just 100-150 pieces
per run, the CPCP Cartier watches have become highly collectible.
The Cartier Tank first appeared in 1917 when Louis Cartier presented a timepiece to John J.
Pershing, commander of the American Expeditionary Forces in World War I. The Renault FT-17
infantry tank used in the First World War was the inspiration for Louis' wristwatch. A rectangular
dial wedged between lugs that extend beyond the dial to receive a leather band, there is an
immediate link when comparing this to the shape of the FT-17. The Cartier tank is a classic
design that has stood the test of time and is the most popular model from the company.
Cartier was founded by Louis Francois Cartier in Paris in 1847. Passed on to Louis’ son Alfred in
1874, and then to Alfred’s sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques after that, it was the third generation of
Cartier’s who were responsible for globalizing the brand. Following Pierre's death in 1964, the
Cartier affiliates in London, New York, and Paris were sold to various investors. The company went
through a series of ownership groups and investors and is now a part of the Richemont Group.
History of Cartier Watches
King of Jewelers, Jeweler of Kings
When measuring the impact of high-fashion and design in the world of horology, Cartier stands head and shoulders above every other watchmaker. Historically, Cartier created jewelry for maharajahs and tsars, and the company built a reputation for their craftsmanship, design, and ongoing technological innovations.
Jeweler and watchmaker Louis-Francois Cartier founded the company that bears his name in 1847 when he took over the Paris workshop of his mentor, master-craftsman Adolphe Picard. Born in 1819 to a working-class Parisian family, Cartier’s father made gunpowder and his mother worked as a laundress. His father believed in the importance of education and urged Louis-Francois to remain curious and to continue to learn throughout his life. In keeping with the European tradition of apprenticeship, as a young man he worked for the renowned goldsmith Adolphe Picard.
Louis-Francois CartierAdolphe Picard
The new endeavor was initially known as Cartier Gillion
When Louis-Francois took over the Picard firm, he already had two children and a practiced passion for education and learning. In 1859, with his own firm established and flourishing, he purchased a well-known jewelry company called Gillion. The new endeavor was initially known as Cartier Gillion, with the additional name ultimately being dropped leaving us with the Cartier brand we know today. The Cartier family retained ownership of the firm until 1964, establishing it as the premier international jeweler.
Cartier innovated as both a watchmaker and a jeweler. He brought a new level of security to the jewelry industry by introducing the practice of stamping all pieces produced in his workshop with an individual serial number.
Just as an artist would sign a painting, he believed that each piece from his workshop should bear an identifying signature as well. The practice was soon adopted by other jewelry makers and designers around the world.
Like other watch sellers of the time, Cartier maintained excellent relationships with the wealthy, the aristocracy, and royalty by leveraging his poise and position. Alongside his central watchmaking business, his phenomenal ability to represent an array of fashion, jewelry, and beautifully-crafted novelties ensured his continued success.
Just a few weeks after opening a new shop on a fashionable Parisian street near the Palais Royal in 1853, a French countess purchased three brooches and went on to show them to Napoleon Bonaparte III's wife, the Empress Eugenie. Soon after, in 1856, Cartier received an endorsement from Princess Mathilde, the niece of Napoleon I and Napoleon III's cousin, who purchased a collection of jewelry from Cartier. Word of the royal purchase spread so quickly that there were times when Cartier was hard-pressed for inventory, selling more than 150 pieces of jewelry that are now considered to be masterworks. Despite the high demand, the talented watchmaker and his thriving business were ready for the challenge.
Princess MathildeTiara Cartier
Louis-Francois’ grandsons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques Rue de la Paix
By 1899, Cartier was a well-established international name, and control of the company was handed to Louis-Francois’ three grandsons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques. With the help of their father Alfred, the brothers moved to a new location on the Rue de la Paix where the brand still maintains a boutique to this day. The Cartier presence enticed other merchants to move to the area, and it quickly became the Parisian center for haute couture fashion houses and jewelry craftsmen. It was said that Cartier changed the entire arrondissement, setting a tone of dazzling opulence and luxury.
In 1900, Cartier held a special exhibition of diamond jewelry mounted in platinum, showcasing eighteenth-century Neoclassical designs.
The show appealed to wealthy buyers and royalty from around the world. In 1902, Alfred's second son Pierre Cartier (1878-1964), branched out and opened a Cartier boutique at 4 New Burlington Street in London. The grand opening of the new location coincided with the coronation of King Edward VI, which pleased the new monarch very much. His family "adopted" Cartier, and in 1904, they were issued the first royal warrant as the official jeweler to the King of England. Eventually, control of the London boutique passed to the youngest Cartier brother Jacques (1884-1942).
Cartier boutique at 4 New Burlington Street in LondonCartier royal warrant
Louis-Francois passed away at the age of 85 in 1904 at a time when his company was entering a new phase of success.
That same year, the Cartier brothers visited Russia and were inspired to create their a-la Russe collection which referenced Russian national motifs. Czar Nicholas II ordered several treasures from the collection, helping to prove that Cartier was still the gold standard of their industry even without its patriarch at the helm. These were considered the "golden years" of Cartier (1904-1920) and were full of iconic sales such as the jewel-studded "Tutti Frutti" bracelets and necklace for the Maharaja of Patiala, the “Big Cat" jewels for the Duchess of Windsor, and the majestically ornate Belle Epoque garland necklace in platinum for King Edward VII.
A-la Russe collection "Tutti Frutti" bracelets“Big Cat" jewelsKing Edward VII
Alberto Santos-Dumont Cartier flying prototype
Responsible for the Paris branch of the company, Louis Cartier was a creative mind and an inventor who carried on his grandfather’s legacy of innovation. In 1904, he developed a prototype for his friend, the pioneering Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Santos-Dumont had complained of the unreliability and impracticality of using pocket watches while flying. Worn during every flight and seen on his wrist in countless newspaper photographs, the revolutionary new “wristwatch” quickly gained popularity.
Patek Philippe first popularized the idea for a small, comfortable pocket watch on a leather strap secured by a pin buckle, but their watch was designed for women. The Cartier creation was the first watch of this style made specifically for men. It was flat with a square bezel and dubbed the "Santos".
In 1907, Louis Cartier initiated a partnership with Edmond Jaeger of the noted watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre, making Jaeger the exclusive supplier of watch movements for Cartier.
712 Fifth Avenue in Manhattan
With the brand gaining momentum and international popularity, the family opened a string of new boutiques, beginning with one in St. Petersburg, Russia. In 1909, Pierre Cartier went to the United States to open the renowned boutique at 712 Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, while Louis remained in Paris to manage the boutique there which formed the geographical center for the company. Finally, a new London boutique was opened at 175-176 New Bond Street.
In 1910, Pierre Cartier made headlines around the world when he sold the famed 45.52 carat Hope Diamond after purchasing it from C.H. Rosenau. It was offered at the Cartier Maison in Paris to Washington D.C. socialite Evalyn Walsh McLean who didn't approve of the white diamond and platinum setting. Pierre reset the stone as a tiara with three tiers of large white diamonds and delivered it to Mrs. McLean, letting her keep the piece for a weekend to entice her to complete the sale. The classy gambit worked, and she purchased the piece. The Hope Diamond remained in McLean’s possession until her death in 1947. It was later transformed into a pendant on a diamond necklace and donated to the Smithsonian Institution where it remains to this day.
Hope Diamond and Evalyn Walsh McLean
1911 witnessed the official introduction of the Santos de Cartier wristwatch, which was modeled on the 1904 prototype created for Alberto Santos-Dumont. That same year, Jacques Cartier, who believed in the importance of building strong relationships with key clients, began his journeys on behalf of the company.
Maharajas of India
Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, he traveled extensively in Asia and the Middle East, purchasing a huge assortment of colored gemstones and pearls. Acting as an ambassador for the popular art deco styles of Paris, he convinced the Maharajas of India to let him reset their royal gems in more contemporary designs, leading to the legendary Tutti Frutti creations. The Tutti Frutti pieces combine brilliantly colored gems with creative Cartier settings, a style still currently in production.
In 1912, Cartier introduced their first Mystery Clock, which was inspired by the 19th century French illusionist and magician Jean-Eugene Robert-Houdin. It was a box-shaped mantel clock made entirely out of rock crystal with a “magical” invisible dial that gave the illusion that it was floating. Using white agate, platinum, gold, rose-cut white diamonds, sapphires, and enamel flourishes, the clock was a tour-de-force of Art Deco style.
The rock crystal case contained twin columns that braced the dial. A mechanism was encased in the base and connected to the dial using glass disks fused to thin metal ring gears in the hour track bezel. The initial “Model A” Mystery Clock was followed by 20 different variations including the Portico in 1923. This model featured a floating dial that seemed to be suspended by a chain.
Mystery Clock
Introduced in 1912 and 1914 respectively, the fabulous Tortue and Panther models were made of gold, platinum and black onyx and set with diamonds and precious gems.
Tortue modelPanther model
712 Fifth Avenue in Manhattan
In 1917, the New York boutique moved into the mansion of financier Morton F. Plant at 653 Fifth Avenue, who traded the building for a double strand of 128 natural pearls. That same year, in the midst of WWI, Louis Cartier produced a timepiece for General John J. Pershing, commander of the American Expeditionary Forces. Inspired by the Renault FT-17 infantry tank, the watch had a sophisticated and simple design with a rectangular tonneau dial and leather band.
Two years later, in 1919, Cartier officially introduced the Tank watch in platinum with the now iconic winding crown set with a sapphire cabochon.
Tank watch
Egyptian Style Scarab Brooch
Triggered by the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922 by Englishman Howard Carter, traditional Egyptian designs quickly dominated the world of decorative art. Cartier was once again at the vanguard of the newly popular aesthetic and produced many pieces that paid tribute to the rediscovered ancient artifacts. In the London workshops of Jacques Cartier, members of the British royal family, including King George and Queen Mary, brought Cartier to dominance in the English court with scores of commissions fueled by a daily supply of gemstones arriving in satchels from Paris to feed the Cartier craftspeople.
In 1933, Louis Cartier appointed Belgian-born French fashion designer and jeweler Jeanne Toussaint (1887–1976) as the head of Cartier Jewelry. Fueled by her love for panthers, Jeanne expanded on the eponymous theme and designed an incredibly thin platinum wristwatch for Princess Elizabeth of the United Kingdom. At the time, the Panther ranked as one of the world’s smallest watches.
Jeanne ToussaintPrincess Elizabeth World's Smallest Watch
Other Toussaint creations reflected the ongoing conflict of World War II. The "Caged Bird" brooch became a symbol of the German occupation of France in 1942, and two years later Cartier produced the "Freed Bird" brooch to celebrate the country’s liberation.
1949 Panther Brooch
1949 brought the debut of the fabulous platinum Panther brooch with a diamond pave panther poised atop a spherical 152-carat Kashmir sapphire cabochon. The piece was purchased by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and remained in their collection until it was bought back for the internal Cartier collection in 1987.
Jeanne (who was also Louis Cartier’s paramour – he refused to marry her because of her family’s background) received the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honor for her immense contribution to jewelry and design in 1955.
1955 also saw the formation of patronage relationships between Cartier and many famous artists. Actors, actresses, artists, and others commissioned Cartier to create personal objects and jewelry for them. Patrons included:
Jean Cocteau Academie Francaise
The renowned French artist Jean Cocteau worked with Cartier to design the sword given to him upon his election to the Academie Francaise, with an iconic Cocteau self-profile as a handle guard.
Maria Felix Articulated Diamond Serpent Necklace
The great Mexican actress Maria Felix had Cartier craft a fantastic articulated diamond necklace shaped like a serpent in 1968.
Taylor Burton Diamond
Actor Richard Burton purchased a 69.42 carat pear-shaped diamond from Cartier that he presented to his then-wife, renowned actress Elizabeth Taylor. The piece became known as the "Taylor-Burton" diamond, bringing international fame to the company once again.
Jean-Jacques Cartier loved the design process and worked in the London studio and gemstone laboratory - named the English ArtWorks Workshop - with the company’s craftspeople.
Rather than meeting with prospective clients, he much preferred the creative aspects of the process, choosing the perfect gems, and personally overseeing the fabrication of new pieces. In a family of extremely creative people, he very well may have been the most talented of the bunch.
In 1967, he produced the iconic Cartier Crash, a radical oval watch with a “pinched” shape and a kink in the middle of the case. Legend has it that the design was inspired by a Cartier Baignoire that had been involved in a car accident, but that story has never been verified. A collaboration with his premier designer Rupert Emmerson, the model was an homage to the exciting and novel fashions of London in the “Swinging 60s”. Available only at the London boutique, Cartier created a few dozen examples through the early 1970s. After this initial run, a limited run was produced in the 1980s, followed by an extremely limited edition Paris Crash in platinum in the early 1990s and another limited edition of 400 pieces from Cartier Paris in 1991.
1967 London Crash
Rothmans Richemont Logo
Upon the death of Pierre Cartier in 1964, Jean-Jacques Cartier, Claude Cartier, and Marion Cartier Claudel, the great-grandchildren of patriarch Louis-Francois, split the business and sold the New York, London, and Paris divisions to different groups of investors. In 1973, the industrialist Robert Hocq, assisted by a group of investors that included the founders of the Rothmans/Richemont group, bought Cartier's New York branch. By the end of the decade, this group had purchased the London and Paris divisions as well and reorganized the company as Cartier Monde. At the start of the 1980s, the Kruger family of the Richemont Group bought out the rest of the Cartier investors and added the company to its rapidly growing group.
The late 1970s through the 1990s saw the addition of many new models to Cartier’s offerings including the Santos de Cartier model which debuted in 1978 with an integrated gold and stainless-steel bracelet and eight gold screws in the bezel. In 1985 another iconic model, the new Pasha de Cartier, was introduced. The Pasha was a modern reinterpretation of a famed piece commissioned in the 1930s by the Sultan (Pasha) of Marrakesh. The sultan told Louis Cartier he wanted a luxurious wristwatch that he could wear for his royal duties as well as in the swimming pool, prompting the creation of the first highly water resistant Cartier watch. It caused an instant style revolution with its elegant yet simple round case, square minute track, Vendome screwed lugs, and surprising (but now-iconic) safety-chained winding crown. The new model was reimagined by famed designer Gerald Genta and utilized the Cartier caliber 1847 MC movement.
1978 Santos de Cartier1985 Pasha de CartierPasha of Marrakech
In 1993, various holdings of the Richemont Group were reorganized into the Vendome Luxury Group PLC, with Cartier accounting for 60% of the new conglomerate’s initial sales. The group worked to expand beyond the traditional maisons located in New York, Paris, and London, and by the late 90s had opened nearly 175 new retail locations.
Cartier celebrated its 150th anniversary jubilee in 1997 with several magnificent creations marking the event, including the platinum "Eternite" serpent necklace. This piece featured an articulated platinum and diamond pave necklace in the shape of a snake set with two huge pear-shaped emeralds of 205 and 206 carats, and 21 smaller pear-shaped emeralds.
Eternite Serpent Necklace
COLLECTION PRIVEE CARTIER PARIS
In 1998, in an effort to steer the brand back towards its haute horology roots, Cartier created the legendary Collection Privee Cartier Paris (or CPCP for short).
Billed as a “collection within a collection” the line was in production for ten years and featured models that referenced historic Cartier designs while utilizing the finest manual-wind movements available from high end manufacturers such as Piaget, Renaud & Papi, and even F.P. Journe. The watches in the line were all cased in precious metals and were of a higher quality than others sold by Cartier at the time.
Let’s take a look at a few of the most important models from this famed collection:
Tank Cintree
Introduced in 1921, the Tank Cintree was a highly unusual entry into the relatively new category of wristwatches. Up until this point, watches were mainly straight-forward, utilitarian pieces, but the Cintree chose to focus more on design and aesthetics and it stood out doing so. The original model was produced in extremely limited quantities making the Cintree a very rare and desirable piece. For the Collection Privee, two different variants of the Tank Cintree were produced. First came the time only model which was inspired by a piece bought by American actor and dancer Fred Astaire in 1921. 150 pieces were produced in yellow gold and another 50 were produced in platinum. Next came the Tank Cintree Dual Time which featured two dials arranged one above the other, powered by two separate movements each with their own cabochon-set crown.
Tank Cintree CollectionFred Astaire Tank CintreeTank Cintree Dual Time Collection
Tank a Guichets
The Tank a Guichets is one of the most unique Cartier models of all time, let alone of the CPCP collection. Originally introduced in 1928, the model was similar to the classic Tank but the dial was almost completely covered with only small apertures to display a jumping hour and wandering minutes and the crown was located at the 12 o’clock position. Spotted on the wrists of stylish creatives such as actor Gary Cooper and jazz musician and composer Duke Ellington, the unique model became a thing of legend in Cartier collecting circles. For the CPCP, 150 pieces were produced in platinum and another 100 were issued in rose gold.
Tank a Guichet 1928Tank a Guichet Duke EllingtonTank a Guichet Collection
Monopoussoir Chronographs - Tank & Tortue
The movement found in the Monopoussoir Chronograph was available from the CPCP in both Tank and Tortue form and has one of the most interesting development stories of any from the collection. The movement was developed by THA Ebauche, a manufacturer that was co-founded by Francois Paul Journe and that employed many talented watchmakers who would go on to found independent brands of their own such as Denis Flageollet and Vianney Halter. First available in 1928 in Tortue form and in Tank form in 1935, the original movement was developed by Jaeger le Coultre. The Tortue Monopoussoir was re-released in 1999, followed a few years later by an “XL” model, with roughly 2,000 total examples produced over the entire run. The Tank Monopoussoir debuted in 2007 in a run of just 100 rose gold examples and sold out almost immediately. 100 more examples were offered in white gold in 2008 bringing the total production of the model to just 200 total pieces.
Originally known as the Tank Oblique when introduced in 1936, this model was designed with drivers in mind specifically. Featuring a parallelogram-shaped case with a slanted dial, the idea was that it would be easier to read when the wearer’s hands were resting on the top of a steering wheel. Reissued in 1996 just before the CPCP was officially announced, 100 pieces were produced in platinum and another 300 were made in yellow gold.
Tank Oblique 1936Tank Asymetrique Collection
Tortue
The most popular of the CPCP releases, the Tortue model was available in a number of different configurations. Produced in white, yellow, rose gold, and platinum, you could have a simple time-only model, a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon chronograph, or even a minute repeater.
Tortue Collection
The 2000s
The 2000s marked a number of major milestones and accomplishments for the Cartier brand.
In 2000, the company built the new Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds as a headquarters for the many different crafts involved in watchmaking, including design, production, administrative, and support services. The new Manufacture is one of the largest fully integrated production facilities in Switzerland and houses more than 1,000 employees.
Manufacture La Chaux de Fonds
Maharajah of Patiala Necklace
At the 21st Paris Biennale des Antiquaires in 2001, the company exhibited the famous ceremonial necklace created for the Maharajah of Patiala which onlookers stood in line for hours to view. The necklace consists of a set of five platinum chains joined together and studded with 2930 diamonds, rubies, emeralds and one of the largest diamonds ever found as its centerpiece. After disappearing from the royal Patiala treasury in the 1940’s, Cartier worked to trace and purchase whatever remains of the piece they could find, but many of the gemstones were missing. The company performed extensive restoration work and rebuilt the piece using a number of newer replacement stones prior to the exhibition.
Cartier introduced a number of new collections and models during this period expanding its already impressive repertoire beginning with the beautiful Roadster model which made its debut in 2002.
In 2003, in an homage to Jeanne Toussaint’s passion for panthers and to celebrate the popular Panther line, Cartier launched the Panther de Cartier collection of jewelry.
2007 saw the release of the Ballon Bleu model featuring a round case and completely protected winding crown. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon appeared in 2008, powered by the 9452 MC caliber mechanical movement. This movement won renown as the first Cartier mechanism to receive the prestigious Geneva Seal of quality.
Ballon Bleu
ID One
Introduced in 2009, the ID One (standing for “Ideas and Development”) was the first watch in the world to be powered by a completely adjustment and lubricant-free movement, raising the possibility of a potentially perpetual mechanism.
In 2010, the new Astrotourbillon was released as well as the Calibre de Cartier model. Leading up to this period, many Cartier watches were powered by simple quartz movements. These new complicated mechanical pieces brought a level of prestige back to the brand that included not just elegant design but superior mechanical performance as well.
Astrotourbillon
Improving on the ID One, the company released their ID Two concept watch in 2012. The ID Two featured a radical and futuristic open-worked dial and a vacuum-sealed transparent monobloc ceramic case.
ID Two
It was powered by a DLC titanium coated movement with twin dual-level barrels and four fiberglass mainsprings for an increase of 30% more energy. The ID Two had an amazing 32-day power reserve, and took five years and 135 engineers to develop at La Chaux-de-Fonds. Interestingly, the ID One and Two were never produced for sale and served as technical exercises for the Cartier team and as a demonstration of the innovative watchmaking that they were capable of. The pieces are an indication of the direction Cartier lines will take and what the brand will try to accomplish in the future.
At the SIHH conference in 2012, 19 new mechanical calibers were introduced, bringing the company to a completely new level of horologic stature. They also released a series of short films collectively known as "L’Odyssee de Cartier" which delved into the brand’s rich heritage and recounted their impressive history.
L’Odyssee de Cartier
CURRENT CARTIER WATCHES (AS OF 2022)
WATCHES FOR WOMEN
There are more than 325 variations.
Pasha de Cartier
Number of models: 20
Materials and gemstones: Stainless steel, precious metals, diamonds
Measurement(s): 30mm, 35mm, or 41mm
Movement(s): Automatic, manual-wind, quartz
Ballon Bleu de Cartier
Number of models: 70
Feature(s): Protected winding crown
Materials and gemstones: Stainless steel, precious metals, enamel, diamonds
